One of MEA’s trench drain product lines is called “Meadrain”. Meadrain’s polymer concrete channel drains are available in 1 and ½ meter lengths, are of varying widths and are made with an assortment of integral metal edging. There is also a broad assortment of grating options available for each of the Meadrain channels. The photo to the left is the Meadrain Z1000 with a galvanized steel channel edging.

 
The EN2000 channel (shown right) is another example of integral metal edging. This is a popular product in the US and Canada. Neutral sloped channels are 8” wide and are available in three depths: 11”, 13” and 15”. The polymer concrete channels have “male-female” butt jointing features that make installation easier.

A typical 11” deep, one meter channel is 82 pounds in weight. Each channel has a knock-out for a 6” bottom outlet. Two sloped sections are available which are used for making “stepped fall” runs. Stepped fall sections make a transition between 11”-13” and 13”-15” deep channels.

The ductile iron channel edging is a distinctive feature of the EN2000. It helps protect the polymer concrete from deterioration during use. The edging is designed to accept standard bolt-down grates or MEA’s patented ProFix grate locking mechanism. ProFix grates have a pre-attached spring steel locking mechanism that snaps into recesses in the ductile iron channel edge.

 Likewise, the solid polymer concrete end caps and end outlets have ductile iron edging. This is a feature not available in similar ACO trench drain products. MEA is one of the few manufacturers that still make end caps and outlet out of polymer concrete with the integral metal edging, as opposed to plastic.

The EN2000 is used in applications where heavy wheel loads will be frequent and where occasional large volumes of run-off water can occur. Food processing plants, maintenance facilities and fire stations are a few of the locations where a slotted ductile iron grate is commonly used as a trench cover in these conditions.

Decorative Options for the EN2000

The EN2000 can also be used in residential and commercial driveways where heavy wheel loads may occur or where the owner wants to create a vision of elegance and style. The ductile iron edging of the channel provides a nice border that accents the drain and separates it from the remainder of the driveway entrance. To help in adding the desired aesthetic, Iron Age Designs has developed two decorative grates that fit the EN2000 channel: Oblio and Greek Key.

One of the Iron Age patterns, named Oblio, is shown above in a Meadrain EN2000 channel. These custom grates measure 9” x 19.75” and weight 28 lbs each. The Oblio comes with holes that line up with the threading portion of the channel edging so the grates can be bolted into place. Typically, Iron Age grating is sold in the raw cast iron state. But, shown above, is a special finish call a “baked on oil finish” (or BooF). The baked on oil finish is an added cost that is growing in popularity, especially because it is both less expensive and longer lasting than a painted or powder coating.

The Greek Key pattern is the other Iron Age Grating that fits the MEA EN2000 channel. This version of the Greek Key pattern has a very tastefully designed border of what could be called “spears and shields”. Regrettably, this border does not appear in Iron Age’s 5” wide version of the pattern and, I believe, makes a big impact on the style and elegance of the grate. The Greek Key grate is shown here in its raw cast iron state. You can compare uncoated cast iron surface to the baked on oil finish of the adjacent Oblio grate.

If you discuss catch basins with an excavating contractor, they immediately think about large pre-cast concrete storm water drainage structures that are part of municipal, state or federal drainage systems. These basins commonly have an interior dimension of 2’ x 4’ or larger and are made of 8” thick reinforced concrete.
A landscaping contractor’s perspective on catch basins will be different. Typically, the largest catch basin used in a landscaping drainage system is 2’ x 2’. Precast concrete basins are available in this size, but they are referred to as 2’ x 2’ yard basins.

18 inch Square Yard Drain

Attaching PVC piping to polymer concrete catch basins can be a little trickier especially since it is ideal to avoid using concrete when installing this catch basin. However, you may find it is necessary to use concrete to help seal the pipe in the basin wall or maybe when forming a small apron around the grating to help direct water into the basin. And speaking of grating, polymer concrete catch basins may have some good residential options, but they tend to me more industrial in nature.
Plastic Catch Basins – The final basin type I am going to discuss is the plastic catch basin. There are a number of manufacturers are in the marketplace that promote plastic catch basins. I’m most familiar with products by National Diversified Systems (NDS). These products range in size from 24” x 24” to 9” x 9”. The larger NDS basins are made from high density polyethylene (HDPE) while the smaller basins are made from PVC.

Grating options are better as you decrease the size of the basin. For instance, the large 24” x 24” NDS catch basin has 5 grate options. On the other hand, NDS’ 12” x 12” basin has 15 options. Plastic grates in a variety of colors are common throughout the NDS basin product line. They also have cast iron and galvanized steel bar grating. Other manufacturers also have grating options for the NDS basins. Iron Age Designs is one such company. Below are four decorative cast iron grates made for the NDS 12” x 12” catch basin. Some of these patterns are also available in sizes that fit other NDS basins.

As you can see from the examples I gave above, there are many options in large residential catch basins. I realize that the information given here may not answer all of your questions. To get more details on a product or advice on a catch basin application, send me an email at michael@trenchdrain.biz or call TrenchDrain.biz at 610-638-1221.

In this article, I’m not going to discuss grate pricing.  Contact www.trenchdrain.biz  for product pricing.  I am going to show you 10 ductile iron ornamental grating products manufactured by Ironage Designs.  The designs are unique and creative.  All the grates are ADA (American Disability Act) compliant and are strong enough to be used with vehicular traffic.  Each grate displays a casting quality and detail that could someday be architecturally significant in identifying a style used in the early third millennium.  More importantly, each grate is made to fit a trench drain channel size that has become the industry standard.  And, to this point, I will briefly discuss trench drain channel standardization in the United States market. 

Let me begin by sharing a little history.  ACO was the first prefabricated, pre-sloped polymer concrete trench drain manufactured in the United States and, possibly, in Europe.  When  the ACO Group (of Germany) first introduced their trench drain product line to the US market, they kept the metric dimensions used in Europe, having a standard channel length of 1 meter (approx. 40 inches) and the standard interior channel width of 100 millimeters (or about 4 inches).  A cast iron grate to fit this channel is about 4.8” x 19.6” (or 122mm x 498mm).

ACO was very successful in the US market and quickly became the company to emulate.  For instance, ABT developed a 1000mm x 100mm polymer channel to compete with ACO called PolyDrain.  Plumbing giant Josam began distributing MEA products (also from Europe), which we currently know as the Mea-Josam product line.  Even plumbing fixture company J.R. Smith licensed ACO technology to develop their Smith/ACO polymer concrete channel and EnviroFlo HDPE channel product lines.  Other manufactures followed suit.  All of these products have a 1000 mm (1 meter) polymer concrete channel with a 100 mm interior width.  In essence, this channel sizing has become the industry standard in the US, although there are other trench drain manufacturers, such as Zurn and Polycast, that have ignored the “me too” mindset and gone their separate way with the dimensions of the products they developed.

All this market imitation has led to a “standardization” of trench drain channel sizing, at least in the smaller products.  All of the 1 meter x 100mm channels will support, essentially, the same grates between brands.  Companies like ACO have tried to devise quick grate locking technology to separate themselves from the other manufacturers.  But, in the final analysis, all these channels can accept grating from competing manufacturers. 

This grating interchangeability and the “coming of age” of surface water control in the United States have allowed IronAge Designs to develop a niche product line.  IronAge has developed a number of attractive ornamental grates that measure 5” x 20” and fit the ACO, MEA, Polydrain and JR Smith 100mm wide channels.  

IronAge is constantly adding to their product line.  In fact, the Riverrock pattern shown at the beginning of this article was added to the IronAge product line after all my photographs were taken.  It is difficult to keep up with their complete product offering because they are always working on new projects.  Their growing product line is an indication of their respected designs and their affordable pricing structure.

I’m not going to give specific pricing on these grates, but I will say they are roughly twice the price of a standard slotted ductile iron grate.  Every grate you see in this article is the same price, though.  There is not one grate more or less expensive than another in this product grouping.

 As mentioned previously, these grates are made of ductile iron. Manganese bronze or brass grating can be made in one of these patterns if you want, but be prepared to pay 5 times the price of a standard iron grate.

Of the 10 grate patterns shown above, the Interlaken is the most versatile.  I’m saying this because IronAge uses this pattern in a number of catch basins and other size trench grating.  So, if you wanted to build a drainage system in your hardscape with more options than a single width trench drain, you will have more drainage structure options available if you use the Interlaken pattern.  The Locust leaf pattern and Oblio are two other patterns that come in different sizes.

If you have questions on any of these products, or want to have your own pattern developed, please contact a drainage specialist at TrenchDrain.Biz by calling 610-638-1221.  You can email us at sales@trenchdrain.biz.  Product cut sheets are available at www.ironagegrate.com.

Lately we have been traveling to the Brazilian state of Espirito Santo where we have access to an uncle’s beach house. The drive is eight hours of mountainous terrain that takes you through the heart of their coffee growing region. Along the way, we occasionally stop at roadside luncheonettes for coffee and a piece of cheese bread. In 2008, we made a stop at one such location that just happened to be installing a trench drain. This drain ran along their sidewalk and out into the parking lot where it met with the gasoline pumps. At this time, I took photographs of the construction and filed them away, not really thinking I would be seeing them again.

Almost exactly one year later, I found myself at the same luncheonette to refuel our vehicle and have coffee. I realized when my wife and I arrived that we had been to this location before. This time, the trench construction was completed. I took more photographs to give my readers a before and after view of a trench drain installation that is very different than our approach in the United States.

In Brazil, they have a very different set of circumstances governing their construction industry. First of all, their high unemployment gives rise to low labor costs. Because of low labor costs, there is a tendency to use “man power” rather than “machine power”. For instance, in projects where I would use a backhoe to excavate a small section of ground, they would have a tendency to dig with hand tools. Also, as labor is cheap, there is less of a reliance of pre-manufactured or pre-formed construction materials. Sidewalks and parking lots are often made with tile or paving stone rather than concrete. If concrete is used in small quantities, the cement, sand and gravel is brought to the site and the concrete is batched and mixed by hand. Only on large construction projects is a ready-mixed concrete product brought to the site. 

In the case of a trench drain installation, this has big implications. There is no pre-cast concrete trench drain that is made off-site and dropped into place. There is no polymer concrete pre-sloped channel with locking cast iron grates to set in place with concrete. These products don’t even exist. Ready-mix concrete is cost prohibitive or difficult to justify on these projects. And, trench drain bar grating is often made by a metal fabrication company or made on site by a craftsman using local materials, such as rebar. However, cast iron and aluminum castings are available in specialty stores.

In this particular installation, the trench was to be used for drainage and for running a utility line. Paving stones were removed from the sidewalk and areas in the parking lot. The ground was hand dug to a 2 foot depth. Luckily in this part of Brazil the weathering of the soil is deep; the earth is predominantly sandy clay which can be hand dug easily when dry.

Three courses of 100mm wide x 200mm tall concrete block were laid for the walls of the trench. A frame for the grate was mortared to the top of the block. Portions of the block wall were cut away to accommodate placement of the frame anchors. The anchors were then mortared into place. To ensure a proper spacing between the two frame sections, a template was built which emulated the grate. This template was placed between the frames while it was being installed on top of the block wall. To make certain that the grate wasn’t going to fit too tightly, a metal spacer bar was used with the template to guarantee a little extra room.

Throughout the trench, a metal support that ran between the trench walls and about 10 inches off the trench floor was installed every 3 meters. This support was used to carry the utility pipes that ran from the luncheonette to the gasoline pumps. After the frame installation, the trench walls were layered with ½” of waterproof mortar. The floor of the trench was then lined with a few inches of concrete. Bar grating, made off-site, was put in place. Soil was back-filled behind the trench walls and tamped into place. Paving stone was replaced in the sidewalk areas. Alongside the trench in the parking area, a ½ meter concrete border was installed to give additional support to the trench.

The process used in Brazil for this trench installation was much more labor intensive than we would use in the United States. We probably would have had a backhoe dig the trench. Gravel would have been poured in the trench and compacted into place. A former system, such as EconoDrain, would have been installed to form the trench shape, and a ready-mix concrete truck would have been brought in to supply the concrete. The Brazilian project probably took 1 - 2 months to perform. In the US, this same project would have been a week, at most.

Send your comments or questions about this article to Michael@trenchdrain.biz.

 I like to think of a catch basin as the “first line of defense” in cleaning up rain water and drainage pipes. It is common for homeowners to put their downspout water into a pipe that then travels out to the street or a back yard location. This often leads to clogged drainage pipes. Over time, leaves, sticks and sand particulate from roofing shingles will build up in the pipe to gradually reduce drainage efficiency. A catch basin helps to reduce this problem in two ways. First, the grating that covers the basin filters out the coarse debris that finds its way through the downspout, thus “catching” the biggest contributing factor to clogged drain pipes.

The second way of cleaning the water is the catch basin sump. Finer particles that pass the grating are “caught” in the sump portion of the basin. The sump is a small water reserve that is just below the exit pipe (invert out) of the basin. As suspended particles are first entering the basin, they must pass a swimming test. If they are able to enter the sump portion of the basin and “float with the current” to the exit pipe, they win. If they are too heavy or the water is too slow, they will sink to the bottom of the sump and be left there for later removal. The particles that generally “pass” the sump test are light organics and fine silt and clay sized. The particles that get trapped in the sump need to be cleaned out periodically. (So, check your sumps!!) Also, the deeper or wider the sump, the more difficult it will be for the particle to “swim” to the exit pipe.

Catch Basin Installation

That’s the theory. Let’s talk about installation. I’m going to show two methods that involve installing catch basins in concrete: the Single pour and the Double pour methods. I always like to place drainage products in concrete because of a number of reasons.
1) It adds strength to the drain, especially if it is made of plastic,
2) It anchors the drainage product to the ground and reduces “floating”,
3) I like the look of a concrete apron around the drain and feel that it helps direct the water to the drain,
4) And lastly, I like working with concrete.

Single Pour Method

The single pour method involves setting a catch basin in a form and making a single concrete pour to form the casing. For demonstration purposes, I’m using a NDS 900 Catch basin with a single outlet. The 900 series catch basin is a 9” x 9” basin with a built in 2 inch sump. When you order this basin, you need to know what pipe size you are using to evacuate the water because you will have to order a pipe adapter to insert into the outlet of the basin. (Note: all larger NDS catch basins will have this feature.)

Basin Install Hole

The next step requires setting the basin, connecting the pipe to the drain and building a wooden mold that will form the concrete casing. I was sloppy with this installation. I admit it. Normally, my work has symmetry. In this case, I never centered the basin properly within the mold. But, you will see soon that this can be made to look good. You can see that I used metal “pins” (or spikes) that were hammered into the ground which hold the wooden form into place. The pins have holes in them which allow me to hammer nails through them and into the wooden form. This is how the mold is held rigid against the earth. Also, the inside of the mold was lubricated with an oil to help in the release of the mold from the hardened concrete. Many products are available on the market to provide this release. However, an oil and kerosene mixture will work, as well as, plain ol’ Vaseline.

Pouring the concrete in the mold is the next step. I used a 50 pound sack of concrete purchased from a local home improvement store. After mixing to the proper consistency, I placed the concrete in the mold and used a metal rod to poke the wet mixture and ensure that air bubbles were not trapped. I want to point out here that I didn’t have concrete under the catch basin. I actually had a large stone. The purpose of the concrete was to provide a “shell” around the catch basin which could provide additional drainage surface for downspout water to collect prior to entering the basin.

Basin Install Pour

 I stripped the mold after I let the concrete set over night. I trimmed away all tramp rock, dirt and wood to leave behind a clean, crisp concrete cube. I want to point out here that I centered the drain under the downspout. And, because the downspout pipe was so close to the wall, I opted to rest the catch basin against the house. I could have put a curved spout on the downspout and brought the catch basin 3 inches away from the wall. In this case, I would have had a concrete section between the house and the catch basin. Perfect symmetry would have been achieved!!! (I should have done that.)

Basin Install Stripped

 Next, I made it look purdy! (Some people would prefer “pretty”.) I packed clean soil around the concrete. I put a bead of caulking between the wall and the concrete casing to keep water away from that spot. I added a little downspout extension to accurately direct the water. And, I mulched the area. Doesn’t it look nice? Even with the poor symmetry of the concrete, it looks charming. Even still, I learned from this experience and I will do a better job on the next installation.

Final Basin

 Double Pour Method

The double pour catch basin installation method utilizes two concrete pours to set the drain. The first pour is made around the drain to stabilize it, and the second pour, made after the first has hardened, is to complete construction of the larger drainage surface.

The double pour method is generally used when you are placing the drain within a large open area or within a larger form. For instance, if you are making a new concrete driveway, there will be forms defining the edges of the driveway. It would be unnecessary to build a perimeter form around your catch basin or driveway drain. You would merely set your drain in a location at an elevation that would facilitate the drainage of the driveway. And, after setting up the drain pipes and any structural steel, the whole driveway would be poured at the same time.

However, a catch basin will try to rise out of the wet concrete as would a boat on water. Lightweight objects will become buoyant and sway or float due during concrete placement if not locked down. A small amount of concrete poured at the base of the drain will provide the stability needed for the final pour. And prior to drying, the elevation and alignment can be “fine tuned” in preparation of the final pour.

In the example that follows, I used a 12” x 12” catch basin made by NDS. This product, NGB1200, is promoted as the Next Generation Basin. Its walls are constructed in a manner which allows you to adjust the depth of the sump area at the base of the basin. Walls are constructed either with an invert opening or with a solid wall. The following picture shows installing and trimming a solid wall section of the basin.

Install Closed End

 For this installation, I decided to have a shallow sump. When installing the open invert wall section, I trimmed the section to give only a 1” deep sump. A pipe adapter was required for me to attach my 4 “ S&D pipe. This NDS fitting (#1243) locked into the side of the open basin wall.

Install Open End

 This basin was to be placed at the base of a downspout adjacent to a driveway. The drain was to become a part of a new sidewalk next to the driveway and house. A hole was prepared to the proper depth. The existing driveway and house foundation formed borders that flanked the drain.

Install Hole

 Next, a small amount of concrete was placed in the hole. The catch basin was set in the hole and filled with stones to help keep it from floating. More concrete was poured around the basin to ensure that it would be locked into place once dried. While the concrete was still wet, the basin was adjusted to the proper elevation and symmetry with the driveway and house.

Install 1st Pour

 After the first pour had hardened, it was time to pour the sidewalk. The stones that were originally put in the catch basin to stabilize it were left in place during the 2nd pour. Once the sidewalk had been poured and was dry enough to walk on, the stones were removed and the catch basin was cleaned of stray concrete. As a final touch, a cast iron “Sun Grate” by Ironage Designs was then installed to complete the project.

Sungrate Installed

 Final Notes

Catch Basin sizes and styles vary with application and drainage requirements. Residential catch basin range in size from 6” diameter garden drains to 24” x 24” yard drains. A wide variety of grating options are available. Plastic, brass, cast iron and chrome grates are designed to meet the cost or aesthetic requirements of your drainage project.

Trenchdrain.biz is an authorized dealer for NDS drainage products and can offer advice in making catch basin selections. In addition, we carry Ironage decorative grating products that fit many of the NDS drainage products.

 Contact at 610-638-1221 or email Trenchdrain.biz

The newest trend in residential and commercial trench drain design. Conventional slotted cast iron grates are giving way to decorative trench grating in high profile applications as homeowners, commercial architects and city planners are seeking more aesthetically pleasing hardscape drainage systems. A number of ornamental grating manufacturers sell products into the trench drain market. However, if you want an off-the-shelf trench drain channel that has a broad selection of decorative grating, you only have a few choices. The Dura Slope™  trench drain product line is one of these options.

 Dura Slope™ is the brand name for a pre-sloped plastic trench drain system manufactured by National Diversified Systems (NDS). The channels have a 5” interior width and come in 4 foot lengths. The grates that fit this system are 6” wide and 24” long. The system has a built-in 0.7% channel slope that helps keep water flowing out of the drain. Catch basins and heavy duty frames are available for this system. Grating options are also available that will rugged enough for fork truck traffic or tender enough for bare feet on a pool deck.
Plastic grating is a popular option for the Duraslope™ system. Two styles are shown below. The slotted plastic grates are available in seven (7) different colors. Perforated plastic grates are only available in light gray. Slotted galvanized steel and perforated stainless steel grates are also available, as are ductile and grey iron slotted grates (cast iron).

A few years ago, cast iron grates for the Dura Slope™ channels only came in a standard black slotted style. However, this has changed with their introduction of the DecoGrate line of powder coated decorative grates. Five (5) new ductile iron grate styles are now available and can be purchased in any of 10 different color options. All grates are rated for class C loading and are ADA compliant. No other grate manufacturer offers the broad selection of grate style and color. Congratulations NDS!!!

Below are the photos of the new grate styles with an example of the bold colors they offer. I’ve also put a standard black slotted grate in here for comparative purposes.

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Orange tile and blue diamond DecoGrate

 
Wow!!! What bold colors! I imagine that some high school or college colors can be found in their selection. Each grate is made from ductile iron and weighs about 14.5 pounds.

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  Now let’s look at another manufacturer of decorative grating for the Dura Slope™ channel. Ironage Designs has built a respectable product line of ornamental grates that fit existing trench drain systems. For NDS’s Dura Slope™, they have two products: Interlaken and Locust.

Locust (top) and Interlaken (bottom)

You can get these grates in your choice of color powder coatings. However, Ironage Designs doesn’t stock any pre-coated grates. You may be better off purchasing the grates yourself and have a coating applied by a local paint shop prior to installation. Nevertheless, I really like the quality of the grates produced by Ironage. They are a sturdy, 15-16 lbs. in weight. The detail of the design and the quality of the relief are remarkable.

No matter, with the Dura Slope™ trench drain channels you have both decorative grating options and color selection. The Dura Slope™ product line is technically solid and will go toe-to-toe with other pre-sloped plastic channel systems, such as Zurn’s Perma-Trench Z886. These products are available at your local NDS distributor and the trench drain website http://trenchdrain.biz

A driveway that slopes into a garage can direct storm water toward the house. Trench drain can be used to remedy this drainage problem by helping to redirect water away from the garage or living space. However, a big contributor to the water problem can also be downspout water. Driveways often have downspouts that drain roof water directly onto the pavement. If the driveway doesn’t slope away from the house or allow for adequate drainage, water pooling or flooding can occur. This article is about how simple catch basins can help to re-route downspout water.

Nobody likes a wet basement. The first line of defense in keeping your basement dry is to keep water away from your foundation. The most common source of water will be storm water which falls on your roofs and hardscapes. Take that water and re-direct it away from your foundation by using drainage pipe and catch basins. This is going to require that you first develop a drainage plan. For this plan, you need to determine which point sources of water you have and where you want to re-route them using drainage pipe. To minimize digging, use a single “artery” through which all the other downspouts and yard basins connect. In some cases, you may find it more efficient to use two different drainage sites (i.e. front yard site and back yard site). Devise a plan that minimizes digging and disturbing your shrubs and landscape.

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Taking your downspout directly into a drainage pipe is a common and economical method. This involves first digging a trench and laying drainage pipe to a lower drainage point. In some communities, the drainage pipe can run underground to the street where it exits from a hole drilled in the curb. Then hook your downspout directly into the pipe for immediate redirection of your roof water. ?????? ?????????

If you want to include surface water in your drainage plan, consider using a catch basin under your downspout. If situated properly, the catch basin can collect water that pools in your yard as well as water from your downspout. Catch basins can also be made to be an attractive addition to your garden down spout. In the examples shown below, the catch basins (9” x 9”) were set in concrete for stability. These basins were part of a larger “gray water” plan which directed all the downspout water to a 1300 gallon reservoir which could later be used for an irrigation system. The overflow from the holding tank travels through perforated pipe prior to draining into a ravine.

Basins have a variety of sizes and outlet configurations which should be a consideration when designing your system. Basin selection will be a function of the anticipated water volume, piping depth and water source layout. Catch basin grating selection is broad. You will have color, style, application and material options that will depend on the cost and aesthetics desired on the project. Plastic grating is, by far, the least expensive option and is available in a number of colors. Smaller basins can also be fit with brass or chrome grates, which are both attractive and costly. Cast iron grates are surprisingly affordable and available in a variety of styles for 12” x 12” basins and some small round drains. For help in material selection, call EarlyCut Supplies at 610-882-3630.

400 - 600 differences

The photo to the left compares a 2 foot long section of a 400 series (left) and 600 series channel (right). Both products are made from the same polymer concrete composition, which is a mixture of silica sand and epoxy resin. This material, while taking on some of the polymaic properties of the resin, displays the compressive strength of a concrete due to the high amount of silica sand. And though the material has the compressive strength which allows it to withstand heavy traffic while in service, it behaves as a ceramic and will crack upon impact or if dropped prior to installation.
Both channels have a similar 4” interior width and are available in 2 foot and 4 foot lengths. And from a functionality point of view, in low flow, low load applications both products perform equally. Most residential driveway applications would fall into this category.
Some of the differences between the 400 and 600 series are apparent in the above photo. Wall thickness of the 600 series is greater, which allows for heavier load bearing capabilities. Also, the channel end of the 600 series has a more integral male-female connection than does the 400 series product. Additionally, the grate used on the 400 series rests on top of the channel, while the 600 series channel actually has a recess within the channel for the grate to lie. However, a major difference between the two products is that the 400 channels are all non-sloped, while the 600 series channel are pre-sloped. The pre-sloped character of the 600 channel insures that water flows more quickly, thus allowing for higher overall flow rates. 600 Series channels can still be purchased without slope and are needed when designing complex drainage systems.
The 400 series product comes with a Class B galvanized steel slotted grate and is capable of withstanding loads from most automobiles. This is the only grating option. With the 600 series, you get a wider selection of grating options. You can get a Class B galvanized steel slotted grate, shown below. Or, you can upgrade to a cast iron or ductile iron grate for heavier loads. Stainless steel grates are even available for applications in a corrosive environment. In fact, there are 19 different grates options and four frame option for the 600 series channels.

Top View of Channels

The frames available with the 600 Series include a galvanized steel channel protector (shown above). This is a steel edge covering that keeps the channel from deteriorating while in use and helps increase the load capabilities of the system. The channel protector is also available in stainless steel. For heavy load capabilities (fork truck or airline) a cast iron or high density poly ethylene (HDPE) frame is used to cover the channel prior to inserting a ductile iron grate.
A final comparison between these two products is price. The 400 series product is manufactured for economy. It is a light duty product that is easily manufactured due to its uncomplicated dimensioning. It has only one grate option. Because of this, it sells for approximately 30% less expensive than the comparable 600 series product.
With the 600 series, you get flexibility and value. Though more expensive than the 400 series, the 600 series allow for higher load capabilities which can be further improved by changing your frame or grate. The 600 channels are more expensive due to the sturdier and pre-sloped design. And, of course, your choice of grating will directly influence your final $/foot price, especially if your application requires a stainless steel grate.
For a quotation on a 400 or 600 series trench drain system, email michael@trenchdrain.biz or call EarlyCut Supplies at 610-882-3630.

The most common grate for the Mini Channel is the standard 3 foot long gray plastic grate (shown on the right). NDS also offers a plastic grate in 5 other colors (white, green, black, red, and sand). For those with a more discriminating taste, NDS offers two simple brass options (shown on the left). The one foot long brass grates are slotted and come in a satin or polished finish. Besides being simple, shiny, and elegant, they contain chamfered holes for optional screw placement which help to keep them fastened to the channel.

Decorative, cast iron products have recently become available for Mini Channel customers.  The cast iron grating product lines offer a beautiful side to what may otherwise be only functional. Currently, three styles of cast iron grates work with NDS’ Mini Channel: the Interlaken, Carbochon and the Minione. These products are not ordinary slotted grates. The Interlaken is an intricate geometrical pattern while the Minione has a flowing design.  Meanwhile, the Carbochon has a bold presence that only accentuates its open area.

There are a few basic differences between the three Mini Channel grates. Style aside, the grate’s channel fit is the next most noteworthy difference. A comparison of the three grates illustrates this difference.

The Minione is a thinner grate than the Interlaken. It does not rest in the channel with the same depth that Interlaken and Carbochon do. One gets the feeling that the Minione sits on top of the drain, rather than in it.

This could mean that the Minione grate is more susceptible to become dislodged than the other. The Minione grate is designed with two dimples that are the locations for optional screw holes (they do not come pre-drilled). If used with screws, the Minnione becomes as reliable as any other grate in its class. Another small difference between the grates is the length. The Interlaken (11″ long) is about an inch shorter than the Minione (12″ long), and the Carbochon (14” long) outdoes both grates by inches.

Cast iron is the standard material used to make these decorative grates. Cast brass, bronze and aluminum products can be manufactured for an additional cost. We should note that cast iron grates are uncoated and will form a rust coating. In some cases, the rusted look can be endearing.

If your situation doesn’t support this view, though, consider painting with an epoxy or powder coating.  I had two samples of the Mini Channel grating painted because I was curious to see exactly how the process would affect the grates’ performance and appearance over time.

The results, if I may say, are charming.  The powder coating process smoothed out the natural texture of the cast iron grates, giving them a softer, less metallic look.  You can really feel the difference between the painted and baked on oil finishes; the process encased these grates in paint rather than changing their outer layers.  One particularly interesting fact to note:  the grates shown to the left have been painted neutral colors – black and dark brown, but with a purchase over 60 LF a wide variety of colors can be chosen from.  Wowzer!

Let me just demonstrate the difference between the two available finishes in another way.  Look at the Interlaken grates shown below:  in terms of color, they are very similar.  But, if you look closer you can see the different shine, the thickly coated surface of the grate on the right.  It’s been powder coated.  The grate on the left, though, has a baked on oil finish.   I’ll leave you to decide which one you like better.

Cost is all in a person’s perspective, especially when talking about trench drain products. A simple plastic grate that comes in six basic colors is available for a very low price per foot. NDS’ brass grate, a beautiful, no-hassle solution for those still worried about rust or decor, is the most expensive. The cast iron grates, which add style and variety, come for the more moderate price that falls somewhere in between and have beautiful finish options. They are the true extra mile, the art to efficiency, and are the balance if a cost-efficient and stylish grate is desired.

If you want to evacuate a large amount of surface water in a short period of time, trench drain is the best way to do it. And, where is one of the best places in the world to find an abundance of surface water? The rain forest in northern Brazil.

I went to Brazil’s northern states of Amazon and Para’ to see first hand how trench drain is used to help in surface water drainage. First, I visited Manaus, the capital of Amazonas state which has about 3,000,000 inhabitants. Thereafter, I flew to a small mining community of Porto de Trombetas, in Para’ state. Though only 7000 live here, Trombetas has the largest metallurgical grade bauxite mine in the world and is the first ISO 14000 city in the western hemisphere. Besides being in the heart of the rain forest, they are ground zero for big daily rainfalls and surface water evacuation.

Trenches without Grates

Maybe the best trench for water evacuation is one without a grate. Creeks, streams and rivers don’t have grates, why should trench drain? Of course, in urban areas, we have safety issues that force us to use grates so we can walk and drive over the trench. Grates also help separate large debris from entering the water ways.

However, all grates can constrict flow; either by design or by collecting trash which further constricts flow.

In rural areas, like Trombetas, grate-less trenches seem to be common .

They are used around the yard to collect water from the roofs. They are used at the carport and at the driveway entrances. I guess, if you make the trench narrow enough, you minimize the risk of having someone hurt themselves from stepping in the trench.

I suspect, the folks in the rain forest are more concerned over living with water than they are living by lawsuits.

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Near the city square in Manaus, I found this 8” wide trench drain that looked as if it once had a cover of some sort.

With the cover gone, it is easier for trash to collect in the trench, thus making water quality more difficult to maintain.

Trenches with Concrete Covers

Concrete is an inexpensive and “low tech” material. Concrete commonly finds itself as a trench covering material in regions of the world where metal products are precious or where labor rates are low. (Has anyone counted missing manhole covers in Detroit, lately?) However, I was impressed how large surface drainage was accomplished without the obvious use of metal grates.

In most cases, the areas that used concrete drainage covers were predominantly for foot or light vehicle traffic (Class A or B). Though the drainage trench may have been covered by a low open surface area concrete cover (sometimes 0% openings), grate sections existed that accepted larger flows. ?????????? ? ?????

One exception to this observation was found at the Airport at Manaus. The trench covering was made of individual concrete “plates” which stood on end, packed together as if on a book shelf. The individual concrete sections made up the veins of the grate which supported aircraft traffic over the trench drain. I was sufficiently impressed.

Crude Metal Trench Coverings

If you need a trench covering in a high traffic area where bulky concrete grates will not work, an inexpensive metal covering is the next option. Sometimes, you need to just keep people from stepping in the animal drippings off the butcher’s table or make the entrance to your store a little smoother. A simple flat metal or rebar grate may be all you need. However, if you need a trench grate that needs to be stronger for high foot or automobile traffic, bar grates are a good option. Just make certain that the bars are thick enough to support the load that is being supported.

Solid metal trench coverings were found in automobile traffic areas. The best covers seemed to be made with thick plate and with a reinforced edge . However, a poor frame design may cause premature failure leading to the drain covering to dismount.

Engineered Metal Grates

Lastly, I was able to find engineer bar grates…ones that had cross supporting metal bars. These are usually more difficult to manufacture and show a little more sophistication than a simple bar grate. These products were found only in the mining town of Trombetas. Examples of this grate type were found at the swimming pool, at the bauxite processing plant and at the mine’s green house.

In this final photo from this trip you see me (author) at the tree farm that the mine owns. I am standing on an engineered metal grate made of aluminum (this is a metallurgical grade bauxite plant). I am wearing traditional Gringo attire — camo shorts and a flowered shirt.

A wonderful point to make about this photo is the purpose of the tree farm. Prior to the mining of the rain forest, an inventory of the vegetation is made. After mining (and the return of the original top soil), trees are again replanted with the species and in the proportions that were taken from the original forest. This is an integral part of the mining operations at Trombetas and a testimony to Brazil’s respect for the world’s last great wilderness which they hold.

Summary

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Trench drain is alive and well in the rain forest. The drain channel bodies are cast-in-place concrete. The trench coverings, if they exist, are made from concrete and bar stock steel. No cast iron grates were seen in this region during my visit. To the best of my knowledge, no preformed or pre-engineered trench drain systems are available.